Are Peptide Skincare Products All Buzz, Or Do They Actually Work?
We asked dermatologists for their take, and they say peptides are more than a trend.
Pro peptide serums, plumping peptide moisturizers, peptide-rich creams, collagen-boosting peptide miracle potions galore — if it seems like every skincare brand is peppering you with ads about their latest peptide products, you’re not alone. It’s also natural to wonder if this really is the next big innovation in skincare, or just another big marketing push that’s all buzz, no benefits. Since we’re also not ready to shell out all our hard-earned money on something that’s purely hype, so we asked two dermatologists for their takes on peptides in skincare. Turns out, there’s some serious science behind this trending ingredient that may keep it on our bathroom counters for good.
What’s the deal with peptides in skincare?
For starters, what even are they?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as tiny messengers in the skin. When applied topically, certain peptides signal skin cells to ramp up collagen production, strengthen the barrier, and support repair,” says Dr. Jenna Queller, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of DermWorks. “I often explain it to patients this way: peptides don’t replace lost collagen — they gently ‘nudge’ your skin to function in a healthier, more youthful way.”
As for how peptides in skincare might change your skin over time, they are best known for having anti-aging and anti-inflammation benefits, according to Dr. Dara Spearman, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Radiant Dermatology Associates. Queller says that little prompt to your skin to make more collagen “can translate to smoother texture, improved firmness, and softening of fine lines. They’re not dramatic overnight fixers, but they can support long-term skin resilience.”
It may seem like peptide skincare popped up out of nowhere, and there’s definitely been a new wave of products focusing on them, but it’s not all marketing BS.
“They’re not a fleeting trend — peptides have been used in dermatology and wound healing research for decades — but the marketing has definitely made them feel buzzy. The real key is formulation and concentration, not just seeing the word ‘peptide’ on a label,” says Queller.
Who should avoid peptides in skincare products?
If you’re someone with sensitive skin, have known allergies, or are acne-prone, Spearman recommends steering clear of topical peptides.
“One of the reasons peptides are so popular is that they’re generally well tolerated. Most skin types — even sensitive skin — can use them without issue. There’s very little downside, although anyone with highly reactive or eczema-prone skin should introduce new products slowly, since irritation usually comes from the overall formula rather than the peptide itself,” Queller adds.
Which peptide products are worth your money?
Serums, toners, moisturizers, gels — there are so many products on the market right now that boast peptides as their active ingredient. To get the most bang for your buck, you want to be thoughtful about which ones you spend your money on, these experts say.
“Peptide products that would actually make a difference are ones that are targeted where you are more likely to get wrinkles, such as the forehead, eyes, and mouth area. Any area on the body that is less likely to get wrinkles would be using peptides for the hype,” Spearman says.
Peptide cleansers and toners that wash or evaporate right off are “more about hype than meaningful impact,” Queller says. “If you’re going to invest in a peptide product, serums and well-formulated moisturizers are where you’re most likely to see benefit because they stay on the skin and allow better penetration.”
And don’t feel like you have to add peptides to every step of your skincare routine to see the benefits — you’ll do more harm than good that way. “You should only use one to two peptide products in your routine because your skin can get irritated, and breakouts can occur,” says Spearman. Queller says one “thoughtfully formulated” peptide product is plenty.
When thinking about your overall skincare routine, remember that some active ingredients don’t play well with others. Sometimes they negate each other’s effects or, when combined, can cause skin irritation or breakouts. When it comes to peptides, don’t combine them with salicylic acid or glycolic acid, Spearman says. Doing so makes the products ineffective.
“Overall, peptides are a safe, supportive ingredient that can complement proven essentials like sunscreen and retinoids — but they’re best viewed as part of a balanced routine, not a miracle in a bottle,” says Queller.
